Island Peak also known as Imja Tse, is a prominent mountain in the Himalayas of eastern Nepal, standing at an elevation of 6,189 meters. It was originally named Island Peak by Eric Shipton's party in 1951 because it appeared as an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche. The peak was later renamed Imja Tse in 1983, although the original name, Island Peak, remains more popular among climbers and trekkers. Located in the Sagarmatha National Park, Island Peak is an extension of the ridge descending from the south end of Lhotse Shar. The peak has become a favorite for climbers seeking to experience the thrill of Himalayan climbing without the extreme technical challenges posed by higher peaks. Each year, more than 300 groups attempt to scale Island Peak, often combining the climb with a trek to Everest Base Camp and Kalapattar.
The climb to Island Peak is considered moderately challenging, with a difficulty rating of Alpine PD+. The most technically demanding section is a mixed rock and ice wall at a slope of approximately 45 degrees, leading to a narrow summit ridge. Despite the challenges, the climb rewards adventurers with breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks. The journey to Island Peak typically begins with a trek up the Dudh Kosi valley from Lukla, following an ancient route through small villages, high mountain passes, and remote valleys. Along the way, trekkers have the opportunity to visit Buddhist monasteries and immerse themselves in the unique Sherpa culture found in the Himalayan foothills. After acclimatizing in the region and possibly trekking to Kalapattar, climbers proceed up the beautiful Imja Khola valley to the base of Island Peak.
The best time to climb Island Peak is during the pre-monsoon season from March to May or the post-monsoon season from September to December. These periods offer the most favorable weather conditions for both trekking and climbing. After summiting, climbers typically return via the same route, passing through Namche Bazaar and Lukla before flying back to Kathmandu. Overall, climbing Island Peak offers an exhilarating combination of trekking and mountaineering, providing climbers with the chance to experience the grandeur of the Himalayas and the rich cultural heritage of the Khumbu region. The summit's incredible views make the effort and challenges of the climb truly worthwhile.
We organize few days (3 days) longer than itinerary below for Island peak climbing trip for more physical fitness to climbing but it depend of your time in Nepal. The longer trip walk start from Kharikhola which is two days down from Lukla. To reach Kharikhola hire private jeep or sharing local jeep is up to group size.